Gold or silver jewelry? How to decide, even when you're neutral

Whether gold or silver suits you depends on your undertone, your hair and your contrast. A two-minute test, and what to do when both look fine.

The metal you wear sits right against your skin, often near your face, so it acts like a small color drape. The right one makes your skin look clear and even; the wrong one can make it look grey, sallow or flushed. Undertone decides most of it, but hair color and contrast decide the rest.

The two-minute test

In daylight, with no makeup and your hair pulled back, hold a gold piece and a silver piece against your neck or the inside of your wrist, one at a time. Look at your skin, not the jewelry.

  • Gold makes your skin look warmer and more alive; silver looks grey or flat: warm undertone. Gold is your easy metal.
  • Silver makes your skin look clear and bright; gold looks yellow or brassy: cool undertone. Silver, platinum and white gold are yours.
  • Both look fine: neutral. You can wear either, and the details below decide.

When you are neutral

Three tie-breakers:

  1. Hair. Golden, copper or warm brown hair leans gold. Ash blonde, ash brown, black or grey hair leans silver.
  2. Eyes. Warm brown, amber and green-hazel eyes pick up gold. Grey, icy blue and cool green eyes pick up silver.
  3. Contrast. High contrast between hair and skin carries bright, polished metal. Low contrast looks best in brushed, matte or antique finishes.

Undertone picks the metal. Contrast picks the finish.

Finish matters as much as color

FinishBest on
Bright polished yellow goldWarm, clear coloring (spring seasons)
Brushed or antique gold, bronzeWarm or neutral, soft coloring (autumn seasons)
Rose goldCool and neutral coloring that finds yellow gold too warm
Bright polished silver, platinumCool, clear coloring (winter seasons)
Brushed silver, pewterCool, soft coloring (summer seasons)

If you already know your season from the Color Season Quiz, the finish follows from it. If you are still working out your undertone, start with warm vs cool undertone, and if neither metal feels right, read about olive undertones.

Questions people ask

Which metal suits olive skin?

Usually gold in a softer finish: brushed, matte or antique. Bright polished silver can make olive skin look grey, but brushed or oxidized silver often works.

Is rose gold warm or cool?

Rose gold sits in between. Its pink tone flatters many cool and neutral complexions that find yellow gold too warm.

Can I mix gold and silver?

Yes. Mixed metals look deliberate when a piece links them, such as a two-tone watch, or when you repeat each metal at least twice.

Sources
  1. Jackson, C. Color Me Beautiful. Acropolis Books, 1980.