Brows frame the eyes and sit across the top third of the face, so their shape quietly changes how long or wide the whole face looks. A higher arch lifts and lengthens; a straighter brow adds width. Before deciding what to change, map where your brows should start, peak and end.
Map your brows in three lines
Hold a pencil or a makeup brush against your face, looking straight ahead into a mirror.
- Start. Line the pencil up vertically from the side of your nostril. Your brow should begin about here.
- Peak. Angle the pencil from the side of your nostril through the outer edge of your iris. Where it crosses the brow is the natural place for the arch.
- End. Angle the pencil from the side of your nostril through the outer corner of your eye. The tail should end on this line, no lower than the start.
Start, peak, end: three lines from the same point at the side of your nose.
Brow shape by face shape
| Face shape | Brow shape | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Oval | Soft, gentle arch | Keeps the balance you already have |
| Round | Higher, more defined arch | Adds vertical lift to a face close to square in proportion |
| Square | Softly rounded arch, no sharp angle | Softens a strong jaw and forehead |
| Oblong | Flatter, straighter brow, tail extended a little | Adds width and shortens the face visually |
| Heart | Soft, low, rounded arch | Avoids adding drama to the widest part of the face |
| Diamond | Curved arch, peak slightly toward the centre | Draws width toward the forehead and softens cheekbones |
| Triangle | Slightly longer, fuller brow | Adds visual weight above a wider jaw |
Not sure of your face shape? The Face Shape Calculator takes four measurements.
Color and thickness
Brows that match your hair too exactly can look flat; a shade or two of difference reads more natural. If you are cool-toned, choose ash or taupe brow products; if warm, soft brown or auburn. For very light or grey hair, a light taupe keeps the brow visible without looking drawn on.
Grow, don’t over-pluck
Brows grow back slowly and sometimes not at all. Change shape a little at a time: remove only hairs clearly outside the three lines, and fill sparse areas with fine strokes rather than a solid block.